Dave Solberg

RV Furnace Troubleshooting Tips and System Overview

Dave Solberg
Duration:   8  mins

Description

There’s not a ton of maintenance required on an RV furnace, which operates similarly to the furnace in your home. However, there are things you can do to make it run more efficiently and to troubleshoot if you experience any issues. Say for instance, what should happen when the furnace on a 2003 Winnebago Brave, which runs off of liquid propane, starts to experience issues? How does one go about completing RV furnace troubleshooting to diagnose and solve a problem?

In this in-depth video lesson, RV maintenance and repair expert Dave Solberg teaches you about RV furnace troubleshooting. To give you a better understanding of maintaining a furnace, he begins by explaining how the furnace operates, component by component. You’ll learn what happens from the moment the fan kicks on because the thermostat calls for heat until the end of the line when the thermostat recognizes that the input temperature has been met.

Start with the fan: laying the RV furnace troubleshooting groundwork

Dave begins with the basics of RV furnace troubleshooting. He emphasizes that it’s important to note that the furnace on your RV works by drawing air from the inside and heating in, rather than pulling in outside air to heat.

A mounted thermocouple on the backside of the furnace senses when the furnace is getting too hot and automatically shuts the system down. Good airflow guarantees that the furnace doesn’t overheat, and proper flow is necessary in every system, whether it utilizes a plenum or corrugated hoses (AKA elephant trunk ducts).

To ensure optimal airflow, you should always avoid blocking vents with area rugs and piling objects on or near corrugated hoses. It might not seem like a big deal at first, but putting weight on the hoses can pinch them and restrict airflow, which results in an inefficient or often unresponsive heating system.

How to: troubleshooting step by step

What you need to check if your unit isn’t running, according to Dave: firstly you need at least 10.5 V, so if your battery is sulfated the LP system might start up but won’t run for too long. The fan won’t spin fast enough to lift the sail switch and get heat flowing. However, when the sail switch drops, that doesn’t stop the fan from spinning, which can deceive RVers who think the heat should be coming if the fan is in motion. If this is the case for your furnace, your battery likely isn’t producing enough voltage to lift the sail switch.

Take Dave’s advice into account, and see if you can solve your RV furnace troubles. If you need further help, feel free to leave us a comment or send an email!

Share tips, start a discussion or ask other students a question. If you have a question for the instructor, please click here.

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14 Responses to “RV Furnace Troubleshooting Tips and System Overview”

  1. Sean Sorrin

    Do you have a video on replacing the sail switch?

  2. Brendan

    2003 chateau class c... my heater works fine but it now blowes black smoke out of the exhaust and the vents start to smell like carbon monoxide! Whats the cause of this??

  3. Bobby Polvado

    Heater blower motor making a high pitch noise.How do I pull the unit?

  4. Robert Mackie

    furnace runs for 10-15 seconds and then shuts off, then it comes back on 15- 20 seconds later

  5. Stephen Raphael

    Hi, I have a 2005 National Tropical T396. In Zone 1, I have 1 heat register under the refrigerator and it blows strong and hot air. But I also have 2 heat registers"Elephant trunk" that come from under the passenger side Sofa. 1 works great (near kitchen) but the one nearest the passenger seat just suddenly stopped blowing when the furnace is on. The conduit to the working register is warm to the touch but the other conduit is cool to the touch. In Zone 2, the register located under the sink in the bedroom blows hot air but the register on the toilet pedestal in bathroom is Barely blowing warm-ish air... Im not certain where the ducts run in Zone 2 so I can't see if they're " pinched" . In Zone 1 I can see the ducts under the sofa until they disappear under the kitchen sink cabinet, but again , don't know where they go from there. This issue is ( 2 out of the five registers not operating correctly) appears as though is starting to make the furnace " Short Cycle" duration of intervals is approx 5 to 7 minutes...all night. Please help me. (Please email response to me at stephen.raphael@gmail.com) I'm in my 60s and have a hard time navigating around the site to get back to the right thread. Thank you</strong>

  6. Chris R Kottmann

    Our furnace just stopped coming on no fan starting or anything . I tried changing the thermostat out and it worked for about a week then stopped again. Any ideas?

  7. James Paul

    Awesome video 🙂

  8. Lisa White

    Replace blower motor nt24sp

  9. Steve Bomgardner

    My fan goes on for 20-30 seconds then stops. Propane bottles are full and all other systems work. No igniter clicking heard. Control board?

  10. Daryl Eide

    My heater and A/C will not come on. I have replaced the converter box on the main A/C unit. Mine is a 2010 Montana with duel A/C. My control panel is lit up but neither one will come on. I have checked all fuses

The furnace in your RV is very similar to the one in your home. There's not a whole lot of maintenance that's required of it, but there are some things that you need to know to make it run more efficient and for troubleshooting purposes. Now, the furnace in this one, this happens to be a 2003 Brave and we're gonna take this cover off here the backside and we can see that we've got a suburban model in this one and we've pulled this one out as an example of what we have. And this runs off of the propane, we've got our liquid propane system in here gonna be supplied by the gas valve down in this area in here. And the way the system works is once you have your thermostat set to the desired temperature and it calls for heat, it's gonna go through the circuit board, which we see on this unit here is gonna come into here and it's gonna start the fan to start with. So this fan motor right here is gonna spin. And we're gonna take this off just so we have a little better understanding of what's going on in here. So we've got our fan here. And so the first thing that's gonna happen is nothing's gonna start. There's no flame, there's no heat that's gonna happen, but the fans are gonna kick in and the first thing it's gonna do is it's gonna get any exhaust or old air out of here. And the thing you gotta remember about the system is it's gonna actually draw air from the inside and heat it, it's not gonna draw air from the outside. A lot of people think that that's the case, but it doesn't. So the first thing it does is it bows this in. It's gonna kind of clean everything out. And what it's also looking for is it wants to make sure we have proper fan speed, proper voltage coming in. And we have right here, this is called a sail switch. And it's gonna be sitting more like this on the other side of it. But we need enough fan speed and airspeed to lift this and you hear that little clicking in there. What that's doing is it's saying, okay, I have enough airspeed, I have enough voltage so everything else is gonna work properly in here because it's pushing this up and closing that circuit meaning the voltage can go through and tell everything is good before it starts to light the burner assembly. So then right here we have inside this then we can see this little light on the inside of it. This is where our spark igniter is in our burner assembly And it will then open the gas valve once this says, yep, I have enough speed, I have enough voltage it's gonna start the flame on this thing and then it'll light our burner and it's gonna draw air again from the inside and just run the air through this system here and out to your registers. So the other thing we wanna look at is on the backside of this. We have a thermal coupler or basically a temperature sensor. And what that does is if this gets too hot, then that's gonna again, open and say, nope, we have problems. We're getting too hot. We're gonna shut the system down. So the whole thing will shut down. And a couple of things that you need to be aware of, on the inside of your rig, you're either gonna have a plenum like this one runs all along the inside and it's got the duct work in the floor just like you would in a home or you're gonna have a series of what we call elephant trucks, and they're the, trunks. They're the corrugated hoses that go underneath cabinets, underneath the sofas and come out in areas. So you need a good air flow in both of those systems to make sure that this doesn't get overheated or that it's pushing back air and we're not getting enough air flow over that sail switch. And a couple of things that happen is a lot of people like to put rugs down on the floor because they got dogs and wooden floors or they don't wanna get their carpet dirty or ruined or worn. So they put runners or carpet extra. If you plug those vents up inside that RV, then you restrict the air flow. And that airflow then means that this is gonna heat up, either our temps switch is gonna shut the system off or our sail switch is gonna shut it off. Same thing with our corrugated hoses, if you start storing items in your cabinets, underneath, and you start pinching those. I see a lot of people that don't realize that by shoving something up in there and forcing it in you kink that hose now you don't have good air flow going through that hose. So again, we're gonna get either overheating on this side or we're gonna get that sail switch that is going to open the circuit and say, nope, we can't run. If your unit isn't running, there's a couple of things that we look at. The first thing is you've got to make sure that you understand that these run off a 12 volt system and you need at least 10.5 volts for this fan to go fast enough to open that sail switch. And this is a very common problem. We hit on this over and over again with just about every appliance that runs off of LP is if you have sulfated batteries, this might start up and run for 15, 20 minutes and it works pretty good, but it's gonna draw some really good power out of those batteries. And if they're sulfated, they're gonna drop really fast and if you don't have at least 10.5 volts, this fan is not gonna spin fast enough, the sail switch is gonna drop and it will shut the system off. But it only shuts off the control module and the LP side, your fan continues to run. And so that's kind of the deceiving part is a lot of people say, well, my fans running so I got plenty of voltage but I'm getting cold air. If the case then more than likely, you've got low voltage enough that it's not getting that sail switch up and it's not closing the circuit meaning allowing the voltage to go back in to tell the control panel. So there's not a whole lot of maintenance that's required on these other than to understand the voltage. And one of the things that I do tell people, okay, if you and they say, well, I'm plugged in and I still have cold air coming out and the fan running. If I plugged in, I got battery power. And that's not always the case because when you're plugged into an outlet at a campground source, you have a converter that is charging your batteries. And some of the older units I've seen actually where there are so much stuff being used, like the air conditioner, which you wouldn't use air conditioner and the furnace at the same time. But if you're using a lot of appliances inside that are drawing, you have 30 amps in that circuit. So your refrigerator draws about six to eight. Your air conditioner is gonna drive about 14 or 15 amps. All these other things, there's not a lot of amp draw left for that converter to charge that battery. And I have literally seen in some units where you're plugged in and the battery still drain because it doesn't have enough power to keep them going. The other thing that a lot of people don't realize is that your batteries are gonna start off at 12 volts and the converter should shut off when it's fully charged. And as it drains down, it gets to a point where now all of a sudden, the converter says, Oh, I'm at 10.5. I'm gonna kick on. So it's not on all the time otherwise it would probably boil your batteries and fry them out. So you got that little area in between where sometimes it drops to 10.5, that says it's too low. The converter hasn't kicked on so there could that small little gray area where I still have low battery power even though I'm plugged in. What I tell people if they're plugged in and this is not running or it's running but it's blowing cold air, put a battery charger on. Just in addition, put a battery charger, give that boost on the battery. See if that makes a difference. That will immediately tell you that it's the battery. If it doesn't help, then you come back to here and you look, is it the sail switch? Did that go bad? Is it the thermal coupler back here, the temperature switch, did that go bad? Or it could be a module board. Then you started getting into some heavier diagnostics on some of this stuff. There are some videos that dig into a lot heavier, but that's the basics of how the system works, what you need to understand about air flow and voltage to make this system work and to keep you warm.
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