Well, boys and girls the upgrade of the day today is water pump replacement. Couple of things are gonna happen here with this new pump we're gonna get more gallons per minute than we currently have. Additionally, you don't want to run the pump dry, you don't want to let your water system freeze, but sometimes things happen. That's why they're called accidents. So, with this particular pump it can withstand some freeze thaw cycles, it can withstand being run dry. So, we're gonna get durability out of this that we don't have going right now. The other thing that's cool about it is it comes with a strainer and that's gonna help eliminate stuff that, you fill up in a campground or wherever you are, and maybe end up with some particulates it's in the water and that's gonna help eliminate those before they come out of your kitchen faucet in this thing. So, next step we can head inside and look at swapping new for old. This isn't a difficult thing to do, but there are some small details that you want to make sure you get right as you're putting your water pump in. So, as much as you can do at the bench do at the bench before you get in here 'cause it's a little difficult to work in these tight spots. Make sure that you're using a potable water hose, not just any water hose, to make sure that it's good for your drinking water that's gonna come out of this thing. Now, a little known fact, garden shears, pruning shears are a really, really good way to cut hose and work very effectively for this. As you're putting your parts together make sure that you're using stainless steel hose clamps, not just hose clamps, because we are in a water environment here. That gets us to a point where we're just about ready for final fittings down here. I have already made my electrical connections on both of these using the heat shrink connectors and at this point we can run on a couple more hose clamps. There we can position the pump and get it screwed in place. So, part of what I'm doing here is I'm just allowing the pump to kind of find a natural rest position so that I'm not forcing it into some scenario that the hoses don't really want to be in and putting stress on the hose and on the fittings. And while we're talking about that, the other important thing is the hose, the recommendation here is that you go with flexible line right off of the pump and part of what that's gonna do is isolate any vibration, of course, this pump is pumping. So, as it's running we don't want that vibration to transfer to hard plastic lines like we have coming out to the camper itself. So, flexible line for a foot or more coming off of the pump itself. Then let's talk about that vibration aspect a little bit. One of the things I like about this pump is the base is actually flexible, not rigid. So, when I screw this down that's gonna help serve the purpose of dampening movement, vibration that the pump might have. Boy, that worked out really, really nicely with these fittings. I've got a couple more hose clamps to get on in the back there to finalize my connections. Then, of course, it says a last step, fill your water tank with water, run the pump, look for leaks. This is an easy upgrade to do and it's nice this, insurance and a couple of areas that we're getting, like I talked about that freeze factor, the run dry factor, I am getting more gallons per minute out this pump, so there's a lot of good stuff going on here and I have replaced a 23 year old pump on this camper that, of course, is gonna have a limited shelf life. So, this buys me some comfort of mind that I'm gonna have water when I'm out in the woods.
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