RV goers who spend a lot of time in remote locations without any electrical hookups may find themselves needing to replace their RV batteries more often than those who regularly connect to outside power sources.
The RV batteries are what run the standard amenities inside the unit, including lights, radio, and refrigerator. There are even some things inside the RV that most travelers do not think of that require a battery source, including CO2 detectors and the water heater. All these items can add to the quick drain of older batteries. If you know you will be doing a lot of boon docking, it might be best to replace your current batteries with a higher-quality and more reliable battery.
Related video: Simple RV Battery Maintenance To Keep Them Going Longer
Choosing the right battery for your travel needs will help ensure you have all the power you need, even while out in the middle of nowhere.
Types of RV batteries
There are a variety of different RV batteries available. Finding the best one for your unit will depend on the size of the unit, appliances inside, and the type of RV travel you will be doing. Select a deep cycle battery, which is designed to supply power for extended periods of time. They are built to be drained (almost all the way) and then recharged hundreds of time before it reaches the end of its life cycle. Deep cycle batteries are available in various capacities, including 12-volt and 6-volt. The 6-volt will help keep some appliances running, however 12-volt power is necessary to start up some of your RV’s systems.
There are other types of batteries available for your RV, including flooded acid, gel cell, and AGM batteries. Flooded acid batteries are cheaper and can be used in your RV. However, these take a little bit more maintenance than standard deep cell power batteries. Gel cell batteries are another option for RVs, however they are very finicky and more expensive. Both flooded acid and gel cell batteries need to be in a well ventilated area due to the gases produced while being used.
Many RV experts suggest using AGM batteries, mostly because there is no gassing and can be placed in a non-ventilated and confined space. AGM batteries are designed for rugged trips and best suited for various conditions, including the high vibrations caused by driving around.
When planning extended road trips, especially ones where you will not be connecting to outside power sources, it is best to upgrade and replace your batteries. It is also a good idea to check all batteries for power levels and hours used. This will ensure you have the highest-quality power source while boon docking.
We are confused about the battery shut-off that is placed on our trailer. When should this be closed or shut off and when should it be on? Ex: should it be on while hooked to the truck and driving in order for the refrigerator to run? Should it be shut off when hooked to a power supply or left on so that the battery will continue to charge? We just don't know the proper use of the shut-off so that the battery is not being drained but is being charged when possible.
house batteries won't charge while plugged into 50amp shore power, they do charge when plugged into 30amp shore power or with generator running.
My leveling units are going very slow and despite keeping battery maintenance up I think they need to be replaced. I currently have 2 ROADHAWK heavy duty 12 volt deep cycle vented batteries. What other brands might be suggested or should I stay with this brand/type?
I bought a single DB 100 AH battery 12 v about a month or so ago. I am at the point of installing the battery. I am replacing 2 6V batteries with the DB battery. I bought the 20A DB charger as well. My rig is a 2004 Monico La Palma. I would like to know if I can install the battery, and replace the current RV converter, an Inteli Power 9100 PD9160A with the DK 20A charger. I don't think I can leave the charger hooked and plugged into shore power. The instruction says to not leave the charger connected longer that about 20 hours at a time. Can I then plug in the RV with the DB battery and the DB charger between trips, and leave it connected? Probably not. Can the DB charger be active to charge the batteries, then disconnect from shore power after the 20 hours, or can it stay plugged in? In other words, should I charge for 20 hours, then disconnect until 24 hours before the next trip, then plug in again to shore power? Should the converter be disconnected from the battery? Will the engine battery be effected if I leave it unplugged, or the converter mot charging the house batteries? I am also trying to contact Monico Coach technicians, but is very difficult. Can I put a switch to deactivate the charger, after the 20 hours? I am confused at this point and would appreciate a reply to my email, on file with my account info, or a call to my phone number.
When I have electric power to the RV and the inverter is on my battery to the vehicle engine will not start, I checked power to that battery and it showed to be 5 volts, I hook up my charger on quick start for about 5 to 8 minutes and the engine start so where have I been messing up
I'm a new RVer and my rig has a solar panel and will be parked outside but covered by a sail cloth awning during the winter in Texas. I will probably use my camper 1-3 weekends a month even then. Based upon your classes for batteries, do I still need to be using a battery minder even though I will be plugged up to electricity when not being used?
The SL178 12V 78 FLOODED 24 battery with side posts is recommended for my 2007 Chevy Thor 4 winds RV. 1) What is a compatible replacement with top posts? The side posts do not have enough threads to securely hold the cables. 2) Does this have to be a deep cycle battery to start the RV engine?
I pulled two old 6 V batteries and installed two brand new Deka deep cycle 6 V batteries. I reconnected the cables exactly as they were on the old batteries so that the 6 V batteries generate 12V together. After I installed the new batteries, the electrical system does not work. I have looked around my 2004 trailer, but it does not have a battery disconnect switch, at least not that I could find. I looked for a battery disconnect switch where the batteries are mounted on the towing hitch, in the front of the trailer. The GFCI switch in the kitchen does not operate, so the batteries are not sending electric power to the trailer. I cannot figure out why they are not sending power to the trailer, because I hook them up exactly like the previous old batteries were connected. I do have a battery minder maintenance charger and the green light is on so those wires are connected successfully to the new batteries. The battery minder wires are blue for negative just like the RV negative wire and red for positive just like the RV positive wire.
level system resivour
nEED cONNECTION SCHEMATIic FOR BATTERY CONNECTION